Week 5 Lab Data Groups 3 and 4: Dye

INTRODUCTION

This data is for groups 3 and 4, whose members include Clark Glymph, Bruce Jones, Lily Petersen, Chance Tunnissen, Madeleine Goldberger, Losh Li, Zoe Roettger, and Caleb Valentino. This Lab Group Data report is written jointly by Chance Tunnissen and Caleb Valentino.

This week’s lab involved travelling out to Get Bentz Farm, where we dyed wool and hung out with sheep. Our group’s dye of choice was madder root, which gives a reddish color. We used wool from varying stages of processing including unprocessed locks; roving; hand-spun wool by Bruce, Clark, and Lily; and white and gray mill-spun wool.

PRE-DYEING

In-class on Wednesday, before the lab, we weighed and mordanted the locks, roving, hand-spun, and some of the mill-spun wool. Pre-mordanting weights are given in Fig. 3. We used 39 g (~12% of total wool weight) of aluminum sulfate (Al2(SO4)3) as our mordant.

Our carded, unspun wool (roving) before being mordanted. In the pot you can see some miscellaneous locks and other spun wools.

DYEING

According to Maddie, the dyeing expert who guided us through this lab, madder root dyeing is somewhat temperamental, in that, for best results, the dye’s temperature had to be kept between ~140 and ~175 degrees F. Maintaining this temperature window required recording the dye’s temperature every minute, and putting the pot on/off the fire and the lid on/off the pot. See Fig. 1 for a graph of the dye’s temperature over time. We dyed the wool for 75 minutes, after which it was taken out of the pot and hung to dry. It took 5 minutes to remove all the wool from the pot.

The image on the left shows our pot near the low end of our ideal temperature range at 140°

The right shows it near the high end at 164°

POST-DYEING

In-class on Friday, after the lab, we took a look at our dyed wool. There was a clear distinction between mordanted and non-mordanted wool, with the mordanted wool having a much more vibrant reddish color. The roving had the most vibrant color and the mill-spun the least. It was difficult to tell that the gray non-mordanted mill-spun wool had been dyed at all. We also weighed the locks, roving, and white mordanted mill-spun wool again (see Fig. 2). It should be noted that the wool was not fully dry for this second weighing. Additionally, the roving seemed to have become felted. White mordanted roving dyed the best, and gray non-mordanted mill-spun dyed the worst.

A is mill-spun and mordanted. B is mill-spun and unmordanted.

The image on the left shows dark-colored mordanted wool. The right shows the unspun roving. Both are taken immediately after they were removed from the dye pot.

Figures and Tables

Figure 1: Temperature Over Time Graph

Lid off (purple triangles): 24:30, 54:00, 75:00
Lid on (purple diamonds): 11:00, 30:30, 67:00
Off fire (blue circles): 8:40, 30:30, 65:40
On fire (red circles): 23:00, 54:00

Figure 2: Temperature Over Time Table

Figure 3: Weights

*Post-dye weights were taken before the wool was fully dried. Some wool was rinsed before it could be weighed, but we thought it could be interesting to see what materials retained the most water from the dye process (assuming that most of the post dye weight at this stage was due to retained moisture). In addition, on the day of the lab, our group received additional mill-spun wool which was not weighed before or after. This wool was unmordanted and used to test the impact of mordanting.

Photos:

This is all of our wool after being removed from the dye pot. A is wool spun by Lilly. B is gray unmordanted wool that is mill-spun (or otherwise referred to in this write-up as factory spun). C is a collection of miscellaneous locks of wool that are not carded. D is spun by Bruce. E is light-colored unmordanted wool that is mill spun. F is unspun roving. G is light-colored, mordanted, and mill-spun. H is wool spun by Clark. All of our wool was mordanted except for B and E.
Mordanted vs. Unmordanted Wool Immediately after being removed from the dyeing pots. A is mordanted. B is unmordanted. Both are mill-spun.

Lily-spun yarn immediately after dyeing and the day after:

While still in the pot, the top of Lilly’s makeshift spool was not submerged, explaining the unique coloration.

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